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and these valuable servants? not equerries or other royal 1, but her trusty patent leather shoes, the unsung heroes of the royal household.
近50年来,“它们”陪伴英国女王伊丽莎白二世探访各地,时刻保持优雅端庄却从不夺走女王的光彩。“它们”是英国王室的无名英雄——数十年如一日对女王忠心耿耿的漆皮鞋。
it takes a team of four -- not including the junior member of buckingham palace staff, 2 '3', who has the job of wearing in her majesty's shoes -- to produce the classic black numbers (she has other colours in the same style) which cost about £1,000. yet the queen certainly gets value for money out of them, wearing the same pair for years and re-heeling them when they wear out.
when she stepped out in northern ireland with prince philip this week, she was wearing shoes identical to those she first sported five decades ago. politics change, and so, gradually, does the monarch's style of dress.
the coats have become narrower, the hemlines(底边) slightly longer. only her majesty's shoes remain emphatically(着重地) the same.
at 88, the queen relies on her shoes to be less glass 4, more 5 slip-on. comfort and support are key. as a young woman she often wore shoes with a thinner, higher heel, but for nearly 50 years the same low style has kept her sure-footed and age-defyingly nimble.
known as her 'work' shoes, they are handmade for her by shoemaker anello & davide of kensington, west london, from the finest 7 leather, usually in black patent with a 8 clasp or a small bow.
the team works from a wooden 'last' made from measurements of the queen's foot, and include a pattern cutter; a clicker, who selects the leather; a closer, who sews the upper part and adds stiffeners; and, finally, a 6, who adds the sole and heel on the last.
then there'll be a fitting at the palace, and -- after any final adjustments, including a clean and polish -- they're ready.
the queen's selection -- she has worked her way through hundreds of almost identical pairs over the years but circulates about ten pairs at any one time -- includes plain black leather, black patent, white leather and beige(浅褐色的) leather, and three designs of evening shoe in satin, silver and gold. they are all hand-dyed and water-repellent.
the heel is always 9 chunky and 2¼ in high, with a raised insole to give the royal size 4s an added lift in the arch. if she is likely to be walking on 10 surfaces, the heel will be lower.
but even having them handmade isn't quite enough to get them fit for a queen.
stewart parvin, who has designed dresses for her for 11 years says that the shoes have to be immediately comfortable and that to achieve this, a member of staff with the same size feet will 11 up and down 12 corridors for her until they are suitably broken in.
parvin says: 'the queen can never say: “i'm uncomfortable, i can't walk any more.” '
once she has taken delivery, her dressers kate or beverley might also use wooden shoe stretchers to make them more comfortable.
her shoes have occasionally been 'worn in' by angela kelly, her 13 personal assistant, as they have almost the same size feet. but now there is the aforementioned junior staff member 'cinders', who is the same size exactly. she wears beige cotton ankle socks when testing the queen's shoes, and is only allowed to walk on carpets. the shoes then get one trial run outside to ensure there is no slippage.
footmen ian and william are responsible for everyday care, including polishing and storage. after the queen has worn them, they are aired on shoe trees then stored individually in silk or cotton drawstring(细绳,拉带) bags.
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